What is square and black, with grey all over? The new tile floor in the laundry room! I laid the tiles on a hopscotch pattern, and it took most of the weekend.
It was my first attempt at using a tile saw. Pretty easy, as long as you are careful. My first tip is to make sure the blade guard is down before starting it. Otherwise, you are immediately hit with a stream of water. While that can be a good reason to mop the floor, it does distract from the purpose of setting up the tile saw (which is cutting tile).
I chose the hopscotch pattern for a couple reasons. One, it only uses 2 sizes of tile, so it is very economical from a tile purchase perspective. Two, because there are not any continuous straight grout lines (nothing more than 24"), it can accomodate walls that are not plumb without looking like the pattern is mis-aligned. Three, minimizes cuts to just the perimeter, as there are only 2 tile shapes to work with. Four, visually, I thought it would look a little "Old World" and that should look good with the Crafstman/Santa Fe style vanity that I have for the bathroom.
How to lay a tile floor? May sure the subfloor is in good shape, then install a layer of Hardiboard to deter water penetration. S did that for me. (Thanks!) Then, measure your space, pick a pattern, buy tile, and wait for the tile delivery. Once the tile is available, dry-fit your pattern. (That means cut the pieces, set it up with spacers, and make sure it works.)
During the dry-fit, I realized that it would be better to have the pattern start at the back door and end and the laundry room entrance. That means that the entrance might not be a full square, etc. I chose to do that because when you look down the hall, the pattern in front of the side door is more visible (and obvious) than the pattern at the threshold.
After the dry-fit, lay thinset and place the tiles, with a spacer between each tile. I used 3/16" spacers since I wanted sanded grout, while maintaining a very small grout line. Under 3/16, I find it very hard to get sanded grout into a joint (the space between tiles).
Once the tiles are placed in the thinset, let the thinset dry for 24-48 hours. I let mine dry for about 26 hours. I focused the electric heater on the room, to speed up the drying. Since my washer and dryer were already scheduled, I didn't have time to lose. I did test the tiles and there was a good bond. (I used pre-mixed Omni-grip thinset from Home Depot. It took a bucket and a quarter.)
Then, mix grout, according to directions on bag. I chose charcoal grout and the package called for 1 pint of water for the 7lbs of grout. After a trip to wikipedia, I decided that the package likely meant the 16 oz US pint, and not the 20 oz British pint. So, I added 16 oz of water to the powdered grout and used my trowel to mix. I ended up with a very clumpy and crumbly grout texture, so I added a bit more water (another 2 oz) and then went for it. It was not as malleable and easy to work with as past, pre-mixed grouts.
After an hour or so, I wiped off the haze. The next morning, I gently mopped it (clean mop that was slightly damp) to remove more of the grout dust. At that point, it had cured for about 14 hours, but it seemed quite firm. Plus, the instructions had said to gently mist with water while drying (which I did not do), so it didn't seem like any dampness would hurt. It would just make up for the missing misting, right?
This is a picture of how it ended up looking. I still need to add a coat of the penetrating sealer and put the vent cover back on. Other than that, it's done.
Next dilemma...what color should I paint the room? My washer and dryer will be white, and there will be IKEA cabinetry with very red doors. Plus, a metal sink and a butcher block counter (eventually). This room is at the end of a central hall, so you'll be able to see the room color and door from most of the house.
Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards a steel grey, warm mid-tone brown, or yellow.